Banaras Challenge

Banaras - A City which I had heard a lot about. A city which my husband loves to his core. A city which has always challenged all my inner fears (in stories related by friends and loved ones who have been there).

I was pretty sure it was not my type of place and to be honest, it isn’t.  However, as a city, it has evoked one question in my mind and something which will haunt me for a while, till I find the answer. What is “my type” of place? I used to think that I am a pretty accommodating traveler and my kind of place needs to be nature, cool weather, peace and good food.

My first real encounter with Banaras was with Manduadih railway station. Surprisingly clean and the ride to Godhulia Chowk was smooth. I was almost beginning to believe that people have scared me unnecessarily about this beautiful city. Just when I was happily strolling looking around the whole galaxy of people all around me, a bull nearly runs past me. Nothing happens, but my heart is in my mouth and I am like, what was that! Why don’t the animals mind its own business. And I can only reflect on that stray incident now..I have been a victim of a road accident where a lady happily bumped her car on me from back when I had gone for a morning walk. The animal was instigated to run amok by a stray dog. The lady was not. The animal did no harm. The lady did.

Ever since that incident I was very cautious about the monkeys, cows, buffaloes, dogs which walk skin to skin to bikes, cycles, scooters and rickshaws which run acrobatics trying to avoid your frame on a road (miraculous name given to enter twined streets leading to the ghats). Surprisingly, in my entire stay, I didn't observe a single accident and it felt that every one of them is a piece of the eco-system. They all have their place and nobody seems to mind anybody’s space – a word called “harmony” was probably understood here. Banaras is as natural as existence was supposed to be – a whole myriad of animals and humans peacefully co-existing together.

I stayed close to ghats in a very non-descriptive guest house. Did multiple rounds of ghats and eateries and Ganges trips. In one of the trips back, saw a dead cow floating in the Ganges..a gory sight to be mentioned about..but something which did stir a few strings in me. So did the Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghat. For some reason the burning pyres almost captivated me. I could have kept looking on to those pyres forever had there been no paucity of time. I was overpowered by emotions which are difficult to pen (or rather not required to be). Somehow, it all explains the essence of life. All this madness about being successful, the money, the cribs, the power ..its all irrelevant. At the end of the day, you’d either be the floating cow or the burning body..nothing different. This thought is the inner peace which all of us strive for in our own little ways.

Nothing that has not been said about the food of Banaras. You can probably forgive all that is not perfect about the infrastructure of the place once you delve into the food. It is simply too good to be missed at too pocket friendly a price to not splurge. I was so hooked on to the food that we got aloo puri and Banaras paan packed for our return journey. However, the packed food didn’t have the same taste. It’s the beauty of the entire surrounding, the smell, and the feel of the people eating all around you, which adds that extra special taste. Banaras food is best had in Banaras. I was a fool to try to get a piece with me..I hope someone else does not!

Banaras is hot and humid for most part of the year, just like any other place in India. However, the ghats are super pleasant after the ganga aarti. Crowd disperses off and you can feel the cool wind blowing from the Ganges.

So though Banaras had everything which is required in “my type” of place (except the weather), why do I still say its’ not my type of place? Banaras is nature, still not the way that I am taught to understand nature. Banaras is peace , still not the way that I am conditioned to understand peace. Banaras is food in a way I understand food J. Banaras is not the weather which I understand good weather as. The fundamentals of  “my type” of place has been challenged or rather my conditioning has been challenged. This is where my next search is.